|
|
|
 |
|
Wine and Food: A little sip of Cognac
3/7/2010
Brandy is the general term for liquor distilled from wine and aged in wood. Cognac is a particular type of brandy eponymously named for the town and surrounding area of Cognac, France. Cognac, which straddles the Charente River, lies in south western France, about 100 miles north-east of Bordeaux. Cognac is considered to be the world’s best brandy. Armagnac, a nearby region, also produces superlative brandies, devotees of which would argue its equivalency, if not superiority to Cognac.
The term brandy originates from the Dutch word brandewijin which translates as burned wine, a term inevitably referring to the distillation process. Distillation is a procedure whereby a liquid is purified and concentrated by first boiling it, and then condensing its vapours. While grapes are the fruit of choice for most brandies, various other fermented fruits can be employed. Calvados, the eminent apple brandy of Normandy is one example.
Cognac is distilled twice, which optimises its smoothness and concentration. The resulting liquid is known as the “eaux-de-vie,” French for “water of life.” Only after being aged in oak casks for a minimum of two years can the final elixir be deemed cognac. Most cognacs are made from a blend of eaux-de-vies from several vintages. This is done to produce a consistent style from year to year.
Cognac is primarily made from Trebbiano grapes or Ugni Blanc in French. There are six appellations, (sub-regions), within the Cognac territory. The average Cognac is composed of grapes that arise from one or more of them. The six appellations are: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Finé (Fins) Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. The best grapes come from Petite and especially Grande Champagne and those considered a lower quality from Bois and Bon Bois. A cognac made from at least 50% Grande Champagne grapes is called a Finé Champagne and if 100% of its grapes arise from Grande Champagne it is then known as a Grande Finé Champagne.
The term Champagne, as applied here, has no oenological connection with the renowned bubbly of northern France. Champagne, the sparkling wine, comes from the Champagne region of France. The word “champagne” however, derives from a French word referring to chalky soil. Both the Cognac and Champagne regions share this soil trait. Therefore, the communal use of the word Champagne is about the soil and not the fermented product.
There are a number of different grades of Cognac, a hierarchy which denotes how long the Cognac was aged; the longer the better of course. Moreover, Cognacs intended for extended ageing are often comprised of better quality grapes. VS (very special), is aged for at least two years, as are all eau-de-vies that earn the title Cognac. VSOP (very special old pale), has been aged four or more years. Finally, XO (extra old) is at least 6 but more often closer to 20 years old. You will helpfully find these standard designations right on the label. However, most of the main Cognac producers offer special blends over two decades old (in the $800-$1 200 price range). For the ridiculously wealthy, or possibly psychotic, Cognacs with blends of eau-de-vie upwards to 200 years old are produced and sell for thousands a bottle.
The big names in Cognac are Courvoisier, Remy Martin, Martell and Hennessy. However there are a number of smaller producers that also produce outstanding Cognac from Premier (1er in French) Cru appellations.
Courvoisier, my father’s traditional favourite, has hailed itself the “Cognac of Napoleon.” Seeing as Napoleon crowned himself emperor, it is only fitting that his favourite cognac exalts itself as well. The source of this cachet is the fact that Napoleon brought several barrels of Courvoisier with him to his exile on St. Helena in 1915.
Beware of cheap ‘cognacs’ hailing from America, Chile and even Australia as these are often inferior products that bear very little resemblance to the ethereal elixir produced in France.
Whichever one you choose, serve your cognac in an ample brandy snifter so you can enjoy its aromas as well as the taste.
(Kirk Kirton is an internationally trained and experienced Barbadian Chef who heads the team at Treasure Beach Hotel.)
Email
us your comments. | Top
|
|
|
|
|
